English
This articles analyses how wines are valued in the face of the increasing weight of international markets and how the construction of symbolic value depends on particular social mechanisms that are essential for explaining the evolution of the prices of these goods. The choice of two different regions, each with its own history and position in the world of French winegrowing, brings out the fact that producers who are not favoured by the institutions in place are more inclined to break away from the traditional conception of wine valuation.